From 'Beer Corner' to the best banh in Hanoi: How to spend 48 hours in the city

Why go now?

Vietnam is one of the fastest growing tourist destinations in the world, with the number of UK arrivals soaring to more than 200,000 this year as Brits took advantage of a new visa waiver programme, launched in January.

To keep the newcomers happy, the Department for Tourism is now offering free walking tours around Hanoi (see below). And while the whirlwind of mopeds is part of the the city’s charm, taking a stroll has been made less fraught thanks to newly pedestrianised areas.

Tet celebrations (Getty Images)

Visit for Tet, the Vietnamese New Year, when you’ll find the streets overrun by parties and traditional ceremonies during the seven-day public holiday, which starts 28 January.

Get your bearings

Although the population is over seven million, Hanoi feels modest compared to Vietnam’s second city, Ho Chi Minh City. A lot of that has to do with the compactness of the capital’s time-worn Old Quarter, where most visitors will start their visit. The district sits in the corner of a right angle formed by the Red River to the east and the West Lake to the north. Most historic landmarks can be found in the Old Quarter, but the up-and-coming neighbourhoods around the West Lake are also worth exploring.

The Old Quarter (Getty Images)

A new tourist information centre (1) recently opened at 28 Hang Dau Street (00 84 941 336677; open daily 8am-6pm). The free tours depart from here several times a day, Wednesday to Sunday, but stop by first to check exact times and to reserve a place if necessary.

Day one

Take a hike

Brace yourself for the whirlwind of the Old Quarter. The constant stream of mopeds can take some getting used to, especially given the lack of pavements. Despite the traffic, it’s an enthralling maze of little streets and quaint houses that have stood the test of time – Hanoi celebrated its 1,000th birthday in 2010.

Needle your way through the area until you reach tranquil Hoan Kiem Lake (2), mist-kissed and heaving with trees. Crossing its red-painted wooden bridge brings you to an islet with a temple dedicated to the 14th century military leader Tran Hung Dao (3). An even smaller islet on the other side of the lake hosts the elegant 19th century Turtle Tower (4).

Traditional ceramics on display at the Vietnam National Museum of History (Getty Images)

From the lake, stroll a few blocks to the Vietnam National Museum of History (5) (open 8am-5pm daily). Housed in a colonial building that was once the French School of the Far East, the museum exhibits ceramics, statues and tablets dating back to Vietnam’s prehistory, as well as from the centuries of Chinese rule and the contemporary struggle against imperialism.

Lunch on the run

Head back towards the Old Quarter, past the 19th century faux-Gothic cathedral (6), for some traditional pastries, or banh. Quan Goc Da (7) at 52 Ly Quoc Su, offers plates of assorted deep-fried banh, including different types of meat-stuffed dumplings, sweet and savoury doughnut-type cakes, and various spring rolls.

Cultural afternoon

Before the sun goes down, make your way to the Temple of Literature (8). This picturesque site, founded in 1070 to honour Confucius, is dominated by traditional Vietnamese houses, their red-tiled roofs sporting the distinctive upturned corners. There are also grand archways dividing the pretty gardens, as well as tablets dedicated to scholars and writers propped up by giant stone tortoises.

The Temple of Literature (Pierre Doyen/Flickr)

Window shopping

Hanoi is home to an array of antique shops and clothing boutiques. Next to the Temple of Literature, one such is Indigo Store (9), which sells traditional clothes from the Sapa region, one of Vietnam’s last preserves of traditional Asian culture. The materials and dyes used are all natural, while the seamers working upstairs are all deaf – a common disability in Vietnam, where the legacy of Agent Orange endures.

Dine with the locals

In the modern Ba Dinh District, north of the Old Quarter, is Hanoi Cooking Centre (10). The chefs here take you on a tour of a food market before showing you how to make local classics such as banana leaf salad, spring rolls in rice paper, and clay-pot chicken in a ginger, garlic and fish sauce. You can, of course, eat the fruits of your labour.

Learn to make street food specialities such as spring rolls (Hanoi Cooking Centre/Facebook)

For authentic Vietnamese fare that you don’t have to cook yourself, head to Mot Ngay Moi, or A New Day (11), in the Old Quarter. Opened in 1997, it has traditional wood panelling. Try the bun cha – pork served with rice noodles, broth and salad.

A nightcap

End the evening at Cama Atk (12), a hip bar with an art space and live music.

Day two

Sunday morning: Out to brunch

Any fan of Vietnamese cuisine will recognise pho as its most iconic dish, but few realise that the noodle soup is meant for breakfast. Early in the morning, the chilly Hanoi air is filled with scents of delicious broth served in bowls with rice noodles, slivers of beef, fresh mint, coriander and bean sprouts. Any one of the street stalls in the Old Quarter, all crowded with locals on their way to work, will do the trick. Pho 10 (13) at 10 Ly Quoc Su Street is a winner if you prefer to sit in a restaurant. Finish with a potent Vietnamese coffee with condensed milk.

Take a ride

Join Vietnamese pilgrims getting in line to visit their foremost national hero at Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum (14) (open 8am-11.30am, 2pm-4.30pm, closed Monday and Friday). The quickest – and most thrilling – way to get there from the centre of town is via motorbike taxi for around 40,000 VND (£1.40), though if you’re not alone, it’ll be cheaper to take a metered taxi. Rather like Lenin’s tomb in Moscow, visitors to the mausoleum walk around in respectful silence to catch a glimpse of the embalmed corpse of the revered leader of Vietnamese independence.

Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum (Getty Images)

A walk in the park

A short walk north of the mausoleum brings you to the large West Lake, whose banks host a number of temples. Walk down a tree-lined pathway that crosses the lake to see one of the oldest pagodas in Hanoi, the soaring, needle-like Tran Quoc Pagoda (15). You’ll see locals praying and taking part in ceremonies, such as plodding in solemn circles around the ancient tree there.

An aperitif

Cross back into the Old Quarter a few blocks to Beer Corner (16) (Bia Hoi Corner) at the intersection of the streets Ta Hien and Luong Ngoc Quyen, where there are several bars selling bia hoi, the cheap local draught beer. Tiny plastic chairs sprawl out into the road, with locals and foreigners making up a lively crowd until late.

Sip a bia hoi on Beer Corner (Getty Images)

Icing on the cake

For a refined dinner to cap off your stay, try La Badiane (17). Sit in the plant-filled courtyard and choose from the playful menu of Mediterranean-inspired dishes with an Asian twist, concocted by the French chef. The spiced lamb moussaka and fish curry in coconut milk with hints of saffron are guaranteed to please.

Travel essentials

Getting there

Vietnam Airlines flies from Heathrow to Hanoi's Noi Bai International Airport (18). One-stop options are available on airlines including Emirates and Qatar Airways.

A shuttle bus outside departures connects the airport with the Old Quarter for 40,000 VND (£1.40) one way.

Staying there

A pleasant boutique property, Essence Hanoi Hotel (19) manages to block out the din from nearby Beer Corner. It’s also great value for money with a fantastic breakfast included. Doubles from $35.

Few are disappointed by the trendy De Syloia (20) and its colonial-style facade. The sleek, stylish rooms start at $100 including breakfast.

A room at the Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi

Part of Sofitel's Legend range, the Metropole (21) is just that. Dating back to 1901, the historic property can claim Charlie Chaplin and Jacques Chirac as past guests. Expect the ultimate in Old World grandeur. Doubles start at €286, excluding breakfast.

More information

vietnamtourism.com

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Cheaper, crazier and cooler than ever: The ultimate guide to Las Vegas

Why go now?

Seeing as a visit to Vegas traditionally means frittering away wads of cash (the house always wins, people), Norwegian’s (norwegian.com) launch in October of the UK’s cheapest direct flight to Sin City could come in handy. Norwegian has been quietly establishing itself as a surprisingly brilliant budget long-haul airline, and Vegas is the latest addition to its ridiculously cheap transatlantic stable, with one-way fares starting at £179. The route niftily flies on Thursdays and Mondays – perfect for a weekend blowout.

But if you’re curious about more than a “big one” on the Strip, it’s also a fascinating time to visit the Downtown area, which is shrugging off decades as a prohibitively dodgy neighbourhood to emerge as a hip, cultural alternative to the Strip’s bawdy brash and flash. 

Get your bearings

Mind-blowing fact alert: it's estimated that around half of visitors never stray from the Strip – the 4.2-mile concentration of famous hotels and casinos on Las Vegas Boulevard – which means they’ve never actually visited the city of Las Vegas. The Strip, in fact, lies south of the Las Vegas city limits, and within the city of Paradise, Clark County.

The Las Vegas Strip’s mega-resorts at dusk

Though many are content to stick to this neon-lit stretch of naughtiness, keep heading north and you’ll find the historic centre of the actual Las Vegas around Fremont Street in Downtown. The Arts District, just south-west of Downtown, is also an area of rejuvenation, where a new crop of galleries and arts festivals strive to tempt visitors into the city proper.

For the perfect 48 hours, then, spend a day in each area. We’ll start with the must-dos of the Strip and then head into less familiar territory. 

Currently £1 = approximately US$1.25.

Day one

Take a hike

As a parched railroad town stranded in the Nevada desert and thirsting for tourism, in 1931 plucky little Las Vegas realised providing a hub for gambling and quickie marriages would do the trick. It’s been a magnet for those looking to escape humdrum reality and let loose ever since. To get a good feel for the Strip’s hedonistic pull, walking a few miles along this audacious artery provides an instant immersion into its anything goes, alternate universe. 

The fantasy land that is Vegas is embodied by its themed hotels; you can take a round-the-world trip in a few paces. Start at the Luxor hotel and casino (1) at the south end, a giant Egyptian pyramid that, at night, shines the world’s strongest beam of light into the sky (it can be seen by aircraft at cruising altitude). Walk north past Excalibur (2) (decked out like a medieval castle), which brings you to the Statue of Liberty – or, rather, New York New York (3), a hotel built to resemble a mini Manhattan. Along with the torch-bearing icon, there’s a rollercoaster looping around the Empire State and the Chrysler, a teeny Brooklyn Bridge and, adjacent to the casino, a replica of Greenwich Village.

New New New York Hotel & Casino imitates the Big Apple’s skyline

If the hotels weren’t boggling enough, the people-watching along this route should entertain – expect the likes of painted naked ladies hustling you to pose for photos, deliriously happy tourists toting half-yards of booze, and silver-painted performers dancing to Enya.

The next big stop is Paris (4) – with its mock Eiffel Tower and Arc de Triomphe – and after that, The Venetian (5), where you’ll spot the Rialto Bridge and canals paddled by stripy-T-shirt-clad gondoliers. If there’s enough room on your camera roll after this lot, and it happens to be night time, continue on to The Mirage (6). At 8pm and 9pm on Saturdays and Sundays, the ominous beat of jungle drums strikes up, heralding the eruption of the resident volcano. 

Lunch on the run

You’ll be hard pushed to find an authentic locals’ favourite on the Strip, but it’s definitely worth dipping into The Venetian (5) to seek out the Southern-style fare at Yardbird. The fried chicken with honey hot sauce and the five-cheese mac and cheese are outstanding; wash it all down with a dangerously gluggable Southern Peach cocktail (with bourbon, Aperol, sweet tea and thyme). 

The High Roller is the world's tallest observation wheel

Take a view 

They’ve nicked the Statue of Liberty and the Eiffel Tower, so why not the London Eye? The 550ft-tall High Roller (7), which opened in 2014, is the world’s tallest observation wheel. This being Vegas, you can book the ‘Happy Half Hour’ option, wherein your pod includes a straight-talkin’ bar wench who’ll ply you with shots for the rotation’s duration. By day, the vista of the red-streaked Spring Mountains that surround the bizarre mirage that is Las Vegas is really quite something. 

Just won big? A 15-minute flight over the Strip with Maverick Helicopters (8) gives an unforgettable bird’s eye view of the biggest and brightest mega-resorts. 

Those who do well at the casinos might want to splash out on a helicopter ride

Window shopping

You’ll never be stuck for a mall in Vegas, but for 540,000 square feet of bargain designer goods, head to Las Vegas Premium Outlets North (9). Here, brands including Saks Fifth Avenue, Armani and Kate Spade ply their wares at (relatively) affordable prices. 

Want something a bit quirkier? Head Downtown to Retro Vegas (10), an antique store selling impossibly cool wares from the city’s Fifties heyday – think entire pastel-pink kitchens and vintage dinettes. 

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An aperitif

If you’re gunning for something glamorous, the Skyfall Lounge at the Delano (11) gives the best view of the Strip we’ve seen anywhere, and mixes a mean espresso martini. Or try The Chandelier bar at The Cosmopolitan (12), a three-floor poser wrapped inside glittering beaded curtains. It’s just as ridiculous as it sounds – making it a must-stop – and offers the verbena cocktail with ‘buzz button’ flower garnish, sure to set your tongue a-tingle. 

If you’d rather a laugh with the locals, swerve off-Strip to the Golden Tiki (13), an enjoyably garish, 24-hour tropical paradise serving all manner of “rum”-bunctious concoctions.

The three-storey Chandelier bar encased in beaded curtains (Laura Chubb)

Dine with the locals

The latest outpost of London’s high-end Chinese eatery Mr Chow (14) opened in Caesar’s Palace late last year. If you’re celebrating a big win, this is the spot – with its decadent champagne trolley and outrageous prices, there’s no better place to show off. Most interesting is the bizarre, spaceship-esque art installation that springs to life every hour or so – we’re told Mr Chow had become obsessed with Close Encounters of the Third Kind when he devised it. 

For something more authentic, old-school Vickie's Diner (15), heading north towards Downtown (just past the Stratosphere), is much-loved for its classic red booths and fuss-free, 24-hour food – think corned beef hash with three eggs for $8.95.

The Downtown Container Park proffers hip food and fashion

Day two

Sunday morning: out to brunch

Bid farewell to the Strip with great views and even better food at Giada (16), a bright and chic little spot owned by Italian-born Food Network chef Giada De Laurentiis. The bottomless mimosas go great alongside a strawberry polenta waffle with pineapple and Nutella, or if you’re more of a savoury bruncher, lobster hash with bacon and eggs. 

A walk in the park

Time to head Downtown. For an instant vibe shift, have a wander around the Downtown Container Park (17), a hipster-by-numbers complex of shipping containers offering everything from art and fashion boutiques to upmarket hot dogs and filthy loaded fries at Cheffini’s. And hey, it’s Vegas, so there’s even a wedding chapel. Not to be outdone by the Strip, in the evenings a giant praying mantis sculpture starts dancing to disco music and breathing fire. 

Desperate for some actual nature? The Springs Preserve (18), three miles west of Downtown, offers nature walks and a butterfly house. 

Loaded fries from Cheffini’s at Downtown Container Park (Laura Chubb)

Cultural afternoon

Just five minutes on foot from the container park, housed in the former, 1930s-era Las Vegas Post Office and Courthouse, The Mob Museum (19) is an utterly fascinating – and impressively thorough – account of not only how the mafia ran Vegas in the Thirties and Forties, but the history of organised crime itself. To get the most out of it, you need about three hours. General admission from $23.95.

Find another brilliant bit of Vegas history at the Neon Museum (20), where you’ll wander around an outdoor exhibition (the “Neon Boneyard”) of more than 200 rescued signs from the city’s earliest hotels and casinos. As our guide put it, this is the city’s “native art form”, and there are loads of little nuggets to learn here – the original sign from Liberace’s favourite dry cleaners led to the story of how they would remove all the rhinestones from his outfits before cleaning, and then painstakingly reattach them. Guided tours only, from $19.

The original sign from Fifties casino Stardust at the Neon Boneyard (Laura Chubb)

The shirt once advertised Liberace’s favourite dry cleaners (Laura Chubb)

Time for one more? Back towards the Strip in Paradise, the National Atomic Testing Museum (21), admission $22, explores the story of the Nevada Test Site, where nuclear weapons were – and still are – developed. In the early Fifties, the huge mushroom clouds that billowed from the site became a tourist attraction – afterwards, swing by Downtown’s Atomic Liquors bar (22), where people would come to watch explosions from the roof while sipping an “atomic cocktail”. All red light and black leather, it’s enjoyably seedy, and the smoked melon beer cocktail (with mescal and habanero) is a winner.  

The Atomic Liquors bar was popular with tourists who came to Nevada to watch nuclear explosions (Laura Chubb)

Take a ride

Fremont Street is where Las Vegas started, and today the Fremont Street Experience (23) offers a sort of charmingly downmarket version of the Strip – lined with old-school casinos like the Golden Nugget, “only in America” restaurants such as the Heart Attack Grill (where staff spank you if you fail to finish your ticker-testing meal), and bars selling super-sized cups of beer. The best view of it all is undoubtedly from SlotZilla (24) – a zip-wire ride that takes off from a giant slot machine and, if you opt for the higher, 114ft option, whizzes you along the entire length of the Experience. 

The Fremont Street Experience lies at the historical heart of the city

The SlotZilla zip line takes off from a giant slot machine – obviously

The icing on the cake

This depends on which day you liked most. If the Strip is your thing, find more Las Vegas pizzazz at a show. Cirque du Soleil has seven different themed extravaganzas on the Strip at the moment, or for something more intimate, BAZ at The Venetian (5) is a glittery, musical mash-up of Baz Luhrmann movies.

More into Downtown culture? First Friday in the Arts District (25), on the first Friday of every month, offers free art shows and live music, with food trucks supplying the sustenance. If you want to see more art, take a car south of Paradise to find Seven Magic Mountains (26), a trippy art installation by Swiss artist Ugo Rondinone, where towers of colourful boulders have been stacked in the lonely Nevada desert. Unveiled in May, it will stay put for two years. 

Getting there

Touch down is at McCarran airport (27), which is just a 15-minute cab ride from the Strip. According to the Nevada Taxicab Authority, it should cost around $21.95 to reach the Bellagio, which is roughly the mid-point of the Strip. Bus 108 from Terminal 1 runs to Downtown in about half an hour for $2.

The RTCSNV runs the Deuce bus between Fremont Street and Mandalay Bay at the south of the Strip 24/7. Tickets cost $6 for two hours, $8 for 24 hours and $20 for three days. It also operates the SDX bus which, with fewer stops, is a quicker way to get from the Strip to Downtown and also swings by the Arts District. It runs 9am to midnight and fares are the same. 

Staying there

Vegas is known for its mega-resorts, so The Cromwell’s (28) claim to be a “boutique hotel” should be taken relatively – it has 188 rooms, compared with 3,976 at Caesars Palace. There’s a smattering of a decadent Parisian theme – sultry rooms decked out in purple and black – and at around $148 a night (inclusive of tax and resort fee), and smack-bang in the middle of the Strip, it’s a deal.

Party poseurs will love The Cosmopolitan (12), which has massive, apartment-style rooms (there’s even a microwave for late-night snacking) and great views of the Strip. Milk and cookies at bedtime is a nice touch. Starting rates from $246 per night, including tax and resort fee.

For something more sophisticated, the Mandarin Oriental (29) is without doubt the classiest broad in Vegas. Its Asian-accented, non-gaming environment provides a Zen oasis away from all those bright lights and slot machines, and rooms have floor-to-ceiling windows proffering knockout views – even in the toilet (fret not, there’s a sheer modesty blind to keep your bathroom activities private). Rooms from $300 per night, including tax and resort fee.

More information

lasvegas.com/uk

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Christmas markets, a red light district and the world's most expensive concert hall: A winter weekend in Hamburg

Why go now?

Hamburg, that red-bricked port forever associated with ground beef sandwiches and The Beatles, is a fine prospect in winter. This time of year sees the return of the beer-fuelled Hamburger Dom funfair (on until 4 December), while the Reeperbahn’s (1) cafes and bars spark to life in the dark nights under a neon glow. On 11 January the city’s new cultural landmark, the Elbphilharmonie (2), will officially open to great fanfare as the world’s most expensive concert hall. The final bill after construction ended in October was said to total €860m.

Get your bearings

Hamburg is easy to get around. The egg-shaped centre is squeezed between the main rail lines to the east, the Alster lake (3) to the north-east, the gardens (4) that follow the line of the old city walls to the north and west, and the broad River Elbe (5) to the south. The southern part of the city comprises the old docks, magnificently reborn as HafenCity (6).

Day one

Take a hike

Begin a morning stroll when it’s quiet and the porticoed shopfronts along the Colonnaden (7) are still thick with shadows. Wander south, past the Alster lake (3), a silvery bowl popular for year-round pleasure boating, before turning right, past the boutiques and renaissance arches of Alsterarkaden (8). The city’s oldest shopping arcade, it is hung with creaky lanterns, gilded fish and tridents. Cross the Reesendamm bridge for views of the Kleine Alster basin, then follow the ghost of empire to the Hamburg Rathaus (9). Once the seat of the Hanseatic League, its classic gingerbread house facade trumps every other city hall across Germany. Outside, it’s awash in baroque splendour; inside its beehive interiors compel you to explore (11am-4pm daily, weekend hours vary; €4). 

Hamburg's photogenic city hall

From here, the Rathausmarktplatz cuts west through the Altstadt to a series of deep waterways that fan out from the Alster Canal. You’ll find more of the same as you continue south-west towards the red-brick buildings of Speicherstadt (10), a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the largest warehouse district on earth. It’s framed by the wizard-hat spires of the St-Nikolai Memorial (11) and St Catherine’s Church (12), where Johann Sebastian Bach once pedalled away on the organ (katharinen-hamburg.de; 11am-5pm at weekends, other days vary; free).

Lunch on the run

In Berlin they swear by currywurst, but in Hamburg locals argue about where to get the crumbliest fish fingers. It’s a winning formula the closer you get to the sea, with grab-and-go sandwich counters lining the wharves from Speicherstadt’s timber-pile foundations to the St Pauli Pier (13). Dinky pitstop and local favourite Brücke 10 (bruecke-10.de; open 10am-10pm daily) serves a variety of buttery herring and salmon buns (from €3), as well as local speciality krabbenbrötchen – North Sea brown shrimps on rye, €9.50. 

Seafood sandwiches are a speciality of the city's food markets

A walk in the park

Weave through the streets of the St Pauli district from here to Planten ind Blomen (14), the green lung of the city. Its first seeds were planted in 1821 and the garden has dug in its roots to form a parkland belt that curves round the city centre’s midriff. It’s open from 7am to 8pm in winter and until 11pm in summer (plantenunblomen.hamburg.de).

An aperitif

Beat the work-day rush from the park to a 23rd-floor perch at Clouds (15) (clouds-hamburg.de; dishes from €10) atop the Dancing Towers, a pair of wonky skyscrapers designed to look like tangoing lovers. The highest bar in the city, it struts above St Pauli, and has a rooftop party deck one floor up. While nursing a biscuit-brown Krombacher wheat beer (€4.50), you’ll spy the stone-faced Otto von Bismarck monument (16) in Alterelb park below and count more bridges than you’d cross in Amsterdam and Venice combined. 

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Dine with the locals

The Gröninger Braukeller (17) (groeninger-hamburg.de; dishes from €9.30) across town clings to beer hall tradition with all the trimmings you’d expect: cellar-aged casks; gigantic copper stills; a naughty anything-goes weekend atmosphere. Besides that, on the oak-stained tables you’ll find mountainous plates of suckling pig and sausages to soak up all those thick-foamed home brew pilsners (€2.40).

Day two

Sunday morning: out to brunch

Rise early and follow the cry of gulls to the ornately-domed Fish Market on Grosse Elbstrasse (18) (fischauktionshalle.com). It’s only open on Sundays (5am to 9.30am, 6am in winter), but don’t expect it to be quiet. It’s also the time when pie-eyed stragglers from the clubs in the nearby Reeperbahn red-light district (19) find themselves sobering up in wait for the shutters to roll open for breakfast. Order a fresh fish sandwich or quarkballchen (doughy cheese bites). 

Window shopping

Locals flit between the gallerias and passages of Neuer Wall (20) and Grosse Bleichen (21), a canal-lined rectangle of streets where you can pick up the latest high street fashions cheaper than you ever could at home. 

For something more seasonal, amble along the Kunst Meile (22) (kunstmeile-hamburg.de), past the city’s most influential galleries to HafenCity (6) for one of Hamburg’s spectacular Christmas markets (until 30 December; 11am to 10pm at weekends, other days vary). Tradition seeps from the waterfront, where antique boats are festooned with lights and stalls sell bratwursts big enough to sink a ship. 

The city gets especially festive for Christmas

Cultural afternoon

At the crossroads of antiquity and modernity, the Elbphilarmonie concert hall (2) (countdown.elbphilharmonie.de) is becoming a hub for harbour regeneration. When it finally opens in January (10 times over-budget and nine years late), the gigantic crest-shaped glass wave will reimagine the dockside quarter as a cultural zone. Until then, it’s possible to listen to electro pioneer Brian Eno’s walk-through sound installation (2pm-8pm, until 4 December; €3). It also houses the Plaza, a viewing gallery from where you can breathe in the salt-tanged maritime history and watch cargo ships shuttle up and down the Elbe. 

The icing on the cake

The city has Miniatur Wunderland (23) (miniatur-wunderland.com), the world’s largest model railway, and Knust (24) (knusthamburg.de), a slaughterhouse-turned-live-music-venue. But few oddities beat the eccentricity of the nuttily-bonkers German Food Additives Museum (25) (zusatzstoffmuseum.de; open 11am-5pm Wednesday to Sunday, Thursday 2pm-8pm). Dedicated to emulsifiers, stabilisers, sweeteners, and preservatives, a trip here guarantees you’ll never look at a German cookie the same way again.

The new Elbphilharmonie is the world's most expensive concert hall (Thies Raetzke)

Getting there

You can fly to Hamburg Airport (26), 9km north of the city centre, with easyJet (from Gatwick, Luton, Manchester and Edinburgh), British Airways (from Heathrow) and Ryanair (from Stansted).  

The suburban rail link (S-Bahn line 1) runs from the airport every 10 minutes for a fare of €3.20 (hvv.de). It takes 25 minutes to reach Hamburg's vast main station, the Hauptbahnhof (27). Taxis make the same journey for between €25-35 depending on your final destination.

Staying there

The Fairmont Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten (28) (fairmont.com/vier-jahreszeiten-hamburg) opened in 1897 and is a grand old dame with 156 wrinkle-free rooms and more five-star pomp than anywhere else in Hamburg. If splashing out, request a lake view and try the two Michelin-starred Haerlin Restaurant. Doubles from €225, room only. 

The Fairmont Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten is Hamburg's most exclusive address

With cabins (not rooms), the 25hours Hotel Hamburg HafenCity (29) (25hours-hotels.com) has the harbour spirit in its bones. The seafaring decor is held together by vintage sailing accessories, bunk beds, and logbooks to leaf through, while there’s a handy kiosk on the ground floor selling Hamburg originals. Doubles from €124, room only. 

Superbude has two offbeat hostels in the city, including a corker in St Pauli (30) (superbude.de). It’s heavy on hipster attitude and up-cycled furniture, with doubles from €60, room only. 

More information

hamburg-travel.com

Click here to view a Christmas Market cruise of Hamburg, Amsterdam and Antwerp, with Independent Holidays.

48 hours in Wellington: Hotels, restaurants and places to visit

Why go now?

Thriving Wellington is a perfect city to escape to during the Northern Hemisphere’s winter. January features international cricket, while 6 February is Waitangi Day – which commemorates the ratification of the Waitangi Treaty, which enshrined citizenship rights for Maori people and is a de facto national day for celebrating New Zealand’s European and Pacific heritage. And until 2018 the acclaimed Gallipoli – The Scale of Our War exhibition at the Te Papa Museum (1) (tepapa.govt.nz) looks in detail at the Anzac’s role in this bloody First World War battle.

Te Papa Museum

Get your bearings

New Zealand’s capital is at the very southern tip of the North Island. This is a small city and practically everything in the downtown district is in a stright line between the mountains that rise to the west and the bay to the east. The suburbs spread as the bay widens out, with the airport (2) on a small flat plate of land to the south east. Ferries to Picton on South Island run from the ferry port (3) just north-east of the city centre.

Trolleybuses run in central Wellington, but the chances are you won’t need to use them much as it’s so walkable. You can get a Snapper card from newsagents (snapper.co.nz) to reduce a central bus zone ride from NZ$2 (£1.18) to NZ$1.66 (£0.98) and top it up at will.

The main tourist information centre is called i-Site (4) (wellingtonnz.com), and is located on the corner of Victoria and Wakefield Streets in the city centre. Open 8.30am-5pm daily.

Day one

Take a view

Follow the curve of the bay down to the small beach at Oriental Bay (5) and from there you’ll see Mount Victoria (6) rising above the city. If you’re feeling fit, you can yomp up to the summit; there are various bike and walking routes, including pleasant woodland strolls. 

Mount Victoria also gives its name to the neighbourhood of streets to the west of the mountain that are home to Wellington’s cool crowd, including comedy duo Flight of the Conchords, who you can still see out and about in town.

The view from Mount Victoria (Rob Suisted/New Zealand Tourism)

Take a hike

A northern arc of a stroll allows you to take in practically all of central Wellington’s main sights. After descending Mount Victoria and checking out the colonial houses on Marjoribanks Street, you can see the Art Deco Embassy Theatre (7) on the corner with Kent Terrace. Turn right on to Oriental Parade and you’ll come across the graceful heft of the Wellington City Fire Station (8). 

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Continue straight ahead to Clyde Quay Wharf (9), where you’ll find a pop-up sauna in an old shipping container with a diving board that lets you launch yourself straight into the freezing cold sea after your 15 minutes of heat.

Double back and turn right along Wellington Waterfront Walk, following it until you cross a bridge, turning left immediately afterwards and joining Harris Street. To your left are steps, which will take you to Civic Square (10), one of Wellington’s main public meeting spots. 

‘The Beehive’ (Shutterstock)

Exit on to Victoria Street and cut down Chews Lane to Willis Street, which, if you head right along it, becomes Custom House Quay. You’ll pass many of the city’s skyscrapers along this street. Go left at Bunny Street and you’ll see the city’s fine old railway station (11). 

Diagonally opposite is the unmistakable sight of the Parliament building (12). There’s an original colonial building connected to a dramatic 1960s extension affectionately called “the Beehive” by Wellingtonians, and designed by a Scot, Sir Basil Spence. Tours of Parliament are available daily (10am to 4pm; parliament.nz).

Lunch on the run

Various Kiwi celebs have signed the plates that hang on the wall at Monsoon Poon (13) at 12 Blair Street, though to be perfectly honest I was pushed to recognise the names of any of them. No matter, it’s an informal and fun lunch joint proferring an odd but enjoyable mix of Indian, Thai, Malaysian and Chinese food. The beef rendang is very good, likewise the butter chicken (moonsoonpoon.co.nz; open daily 11am to 10pm).

Dining at Monsoon Poon

Window shopping

Wellington Underground Market (14), below Frank Kitts Park at Jervois Quay, runs officially from 10am to 4pm every Saturday (undergroundmarket.co.nz). You can pick up clothes, jewellery, ornaments and food – and there are live tunes.

Wellington Underground Market

An aperitif

Kiwis are crackers for craft beers, and the hottest name on everyone’s lips right now is The Garage Project (15) at 68 Aro Street (garageproject.co.nz), where they brew everything from IPA to pilsener, and you can sip it all in a default hipster setting (found furniture, white tiles, exposed steel and wood, lots of beards). Open Friday and Saturday 10am-9pm, Sunday to 7pm, Monday 2pm-6pm, Tuesday-Thursday 12pm-8pm.

The Garage Project

Dine with the locals

Some restaurant reviews can be rather off in real life but if you don’t like the whole lamb shoulder (find some friends to share with) at The Bresolin (16) at 278 Willis Street (thebresolin.co.nz) I’ll eat my hat – or maybe just the rest of your dinner. Cooked for 12 hours by a team led by Wellington superchefs Leonardo and Lorenzo Bresolin, it’s some of the best lamb I’ve ever stuck a fork into. Book ahead for Saturday nights – and dress up. Open weekdays 7am-11pm, weekends 9am-11pm.

Day two

Sunday morning: out to brunch

Olive (17) at 170 Cuba Street (oliverestaurant.co.nz) is popular among Wellintonians for its extravagant brunches (tiramisu waffles with boysenberry compote, vanilla mascarpone and coffee syrup) and sophisticated air.

A walk in the park

A cross betweena a zoo and a park, Zealandia’s (18) aim is to preserve the landscape of Wellington in a time capsule before settlers arrived here and changed the natural set up. A beautiful place for a walk, its 225 hectares are packed with plants. You’ll find it on Waiapu Rd (visitzealandia.com).

Zealandia (Howard/Harriet Greenwood/Flickr)

Alternatively, hire a car and head out of town to the Wairarapa, a region of spectacular scenery, with vineyards, fields and walks along the river valleys. It’s all sheltered by the Rimutaka Mountains, which locals comically refer to as “the hill”. creating a warm, dry microclimate a world away from “Windy Welly”. Don’t want to drive? No problem. There’s a cycle trail running from Wellington to the Wairarapa over the Rimutaka mountains (wairarapanz.com/rimutakacycletrail).

Cultural afternoon

Wellington is famous for its films, comedy and literature. Visit the Tinakori Road home of one of the city’s most talented scribes, Katherine Mansfield (19), known for writing The Woman At The Store and Prelude (katherinemansfield.com). It was built in 1888 and has been restored to how it would have looked back in Mansfield’s day.

Katherine Mansfield House (Katherine Mansfield Birthplace Society Inc)

The icing on the cake

Chances are if you’ve come all the way to New Zealand, you’re not just spending time in Wellington. The railway journey north from the city is one of the world’s greatest, packed with tunnels that plough through mountains and tracks that wend their way round cliffs and thread between valleys over huge viaducts. 

Kiwirail’s Northern Explorer service (kiwirailscenic.co.nz) runs four times a week as far as Auckland (12 hours; singles from NZ$179/£106), or you could hop off at Ohakune for the spectacular mountains, Ruapehu, Ngauruhoe and Tongariro, and return to Wellington the following day.

Travel essentials

Getting there

The writer flew with Singapore Airlines (singaporeairlines.com), which serves Wellington from Heathrow via Singapore and Canberra four times a week. It also flies from Manchester.

There are no one-stop flights from the UK to Wellington. Other carriers offering two-stop services include Air New Zealand (airnewzealand.co.uk), Qantas (qantas.com.au) and Emirates (emirates.com).

From the airport (2) a taxi takes 20 minutes into town NZ$44 (£26) – though ask for the scenic route via the bay rather than the tunnel (NZ$9/£5.30 extra and 10 mins longer) – while the Airport Flyer bus takes around 45 minutes to get to the stop on Queensgate (NZ$9/£5.30; metlink.org.nz). 

Staying there

QT Museum Wellington (20) at 90 Cable St (qthotels.com.au) is about to launch as the Aussie design-focused brand’s first overseas venture. It’s set within the old Museum Hotel building, a local landmark which was jacked up and moved 100 yards on rails from its original home when the Te Papa Museum (1) was being built. Wellington’s hippest hotel by miles. Doubles from NZ$250 (£147), room only.

QT Museum Wellington

Quest on Thorndon (21) (questonthorndon.co.nz) is a cool little hotel on Thorndon Quay, a stone’s throw from Wellington’s waterside, with a friendly vibe. Doubles from NZ$222 (£131), room only.

Halswell Lodge (22) at 21 Kent Terrace (halswell.co.nz) is an affordable option in the centre of town with free wi-fi and parking. It’s within walking distance of all the major attractions. Doubles from NZ$100 (£59), room only.

Click here to view our New Zealand Tour, with Independent Holidays

How to spend two days in Yangon: South-east Asia's new boomtown

Why go now?

Burma, or Myanmar as it is more commonly now known, is on the move at an astonishing pace. It is, after all, only a few years since the dark days of military rule and house-arrested Aung San Suu Kyi’s pleas to us to stay away. Now, with her blessing, tourist numbers are soaring and Burma's largest city, Yangon (also known by its colonial name of Rangoon), is fast becoming South-east Asia’s latest boomtown. Glass skyscrapers are rising up to take their place among the skyline’s glittering gold pagodas. And with the curtain of mystery lifting on this one-time pariah of the international community, there is an edgy excitement about brushing with people, places and ways of life still getting used to foreign visitors. 

Get your bearings

About six million people live in Yangon, Burma’s commercial hub. However, it has not been the official capital since 2005 when the military regime upped sticks and relocated the government to brand new Naypyidaw.

Yangon stands on the east bank of the oceanic River Yangon, about 30km from the Andaman Sea. It came to prominence in the latter half of the 19th century when the British made it the capital of their new imperial possession. The colonial port area is still the commercial centre, though the heart of the city remains the gigantic gold Shwedagon Pagoda, visible from most places and so the main focal point. 

Day one

Take a view

A lift whisks you 20 storeys up Yangon’s tallest building, Sakura Tower (1) (sakura-tower-yangon.com). Gaze over 360 pagoda-dotted degrees of the city and the broad, brown Yangon river beyond. Eat at the Thiripyitsaya Sky Bistro, or simply step out on to the open rooftop. 

Take a hike

Street life is at its most vivid in the downtown ‘heritage’ district of dilapidated colonial mansions cheek by jowl with glittering temples. The area is compact enough to explore on foot, starting at the Sule Pagoda (2) (Junction of Sule Pagoda Road, Mahabandoola Road) – almost certainly the world’s only example of an ancient temple in the middle of a busy traffic roundabout. The arresting, pink-and-purple-painted colonial façade on the east side is City Hall (3), while further along Mahabandoola Road is the Immanuel Baptist Church (4). Stroll through Mahabandoola Gardens (5), noticing the fading colours and wrought-iron balconies of buildings which were once trappings of mercantile wealth. 

Continue down Sule Pagoda Road to meet Strand Road, then pass the imposing Custom House (6) to reach the homage to colonialism that is the Strand Hotel (7) (hotelthestrand.com).

British-colonial architecture on Sule Pagoda Road (Dan Lundberg/Flickr)

Lunch on the run

Yangon locals are enthusiastic guzzlers at the street stalls found all over the city. Traders proffer bowls of Mohinga (noodle soup) to slurp-and-go, or Bein Moun (crispy pancakes) which might be savoury – often with prawns – or filled with fruit and condensed milk. The deep-fried crickets are more of an acquired taste, while battered chunks of gourd in chilli sauce cry out for a cold glass of Shwe Bali (milk and yoghurt, rather like an Indian lassi).  

Cultural afternoon

The Shwedagon Pagoda (8) (shwedagonpagoda.com) is Myanmar’s show stealer, its Taj Mahal. The golden stupa rockets 100 metres into the air carrying 30 tons of pure gold leaf, 2,500 rubies, and a 76-carat diamond on its crown. Nobody knows for sure how old it is, but it seems to have risen by degrees from about 600BC, with new layers and chambers added over the centuries to house sacred relics. 

Nowhere is Buddhism more observable as a living, breathing religion. Tourists are vastly outnumbered by Burmese in a constant tide of raspberry-robed monks and pilgrims flowing clockwise round this holiest monument, pausing at marble pavilions and shrines where they leave offerings of rice and flowers. 

Shwedagon Pagoda dominates Yangon's skyline ( Getty)

An aperitif

The historic Strand Hotel (7), a colonial icon of the Singapore Raffles or E&O in Penang ilk, re-opened in November after extensive refurbishment. Sip Strand Sours (Mandalay rum with lime juice, sugar syrup and Angostura bitters) on a rattan chair under slowly turning fans and you will only be following Kipling and Somerset Maugham. If it happens to be Friday evening, when Happy Hour is declared, you’ll find the place going bonkers. Most of expat Yangon and the cream of local society congregate here from 6pm onwards; by 9pm The Strand is a merry place. 

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Dine with the locals

The House of Memories Restaurant (9) (houseofmemoriesmyanmar.com) has a special place in Burmese hearts. In this century-old colonial half-timbered house, General Aung San, assassinated father of Aung San Suu Kyi, had a secret office from which he orchestrated his resistance against British rule. The room has been restored, complete with the national hero’s desk and typewriter. Diners are treated to a tour before tucking into signature dishes such as Poo Pad Pang (soft-shelled crab, fried and curried with onions). 

Day two

Window shopping

Expansive, covered Bogyoke Aung San Market (10) (Bo Gyoke Road), founded by the British as Scott Market, is the place to find anything from traditional Burmese jade, lacquer, puppets or teak carvings, to sarong-like longyis. Wander deep into the central alleys to find vendors busily trading in gold. The market is open every day from 9am to 6pm, with the best bargains often to be had first thing in the mornings. Haggling is expected, but this is usually done at relaxed, shoulder-shrugging pace.

Get stuck in at 999 Noodle Shop (Facebook)

Sunday morning: Out to brunch

Burmese eat noodles for breakfast (and lunch, and dinner). It is hard to find better than those at 999 Shan Noodle Shop (11) (130B 34th Street; 00 95 1 389363; no website) where locals and tourists rub shoulders over brimming bowls. The bouncy, English-speaking owners will offer tastes of toppings such as crispy bacon or creamy tofu, to help you choose. 

A walk in the park

Saunter along the waterside path through lush gardens fringing enormous Inya Lake, an expansive reservoir at the heart of the city. Stretch the legs along Kaba Aye Pagoda Road (12), watching flocks of splashing wildfowl. This is an exclusive neighbourhood with posh villas peeking from behind creeper-draped walls. The most famous – selfied in front of by thousands of visitors – is the so-called ‘Lady House’ (13) at 54 University Avenue, where Aung San Suu Kyi was held under house arrest. 

Supporters wave towards Lady House on the other side of Inya Lake (AFP/ Getty Images)

Take a ride

Yangon’s 50-kilometre Circle Line train clatters round the urban perimeter, stopping every few minutes as commuters, food hawkers and flower sellers clamber aboard. The full loop takes about three hours from the Central Railway Station (14) (yangonrailwaystation.com). However, you can hop on and off at any point and get a taxi home if you have had enough.

Travel essentials

Getting there

Taxis from the airport (15) to downtown cost about £8. Agree the price in advance.

Staying there

The Belmond Governor’s Residence (16) (governorsresidence.com) is an uber-luxury 1920s teak mansion set in luxuriant landscaped gardens. Doubles from £267.

Panorama Hotel (17) (panoramaygn.com) is a centrally-located mid-range hotel, aptly named for its great views of the Shwedagon. Doubles from £105.

Motherland Inn (18) (myanmarmotherlandinn.com) is a simple, clean budget hotel run by a welcoming family. Rooms from US$20 (approx. £16).

48 hours in Canberra: Hotels, restaurants and places to visit

Why go now?

With the weather warming up, spring is the perfect time to visit Canberra – a city that can get brass monkeys in winter and stifling in the summer. And there’s a new way to get there; Singapore Airlines recently launched route is the only one-stop service from the UK to Australia’s under-appreciated capital. 

From 11 November the city’s Sunset Cinema season (sunsetcinema.com.au) kicks off, and sunny weather means it’s cricket season too, with the South African test side visiting for matches at the Manuka Oval (1) (manukaoval.com.au) on 18 and 20 November.

Get your bearings

Canberra is the most successful planned city in history – and one of the most spectacular. A low-rise urban gem surrounded by bush, it’s laced with greenery and hills and sliced through by the serpentine Lake Burley Griffin. North of the lake is the central business district of Civic, also known as City Centre; south of it is Parliament House (2). 

Mount Ainslie (3) looks over the city from the east, while to the west is the embassy district of Yarralumla. The area is more than a little reminiscent of Walt Disney World’s Epcot Centre, with each embassy built in the stereotypical vernacular of that nation – the Chinese and Japanese buildings are particularly flamboyant. Mexico is a modernist marvel; Britain, sadly, is middle of the road.

Mount Ainslie offers a stunning view that’s worth the climb (Tourism Australia)

Expressway roads connect all areas and while some find the layout confusing, you can get your bearings very quickly using the excellent free maps from the visitors’ centre (4) at Regatta Point (visitcanberra.com.au; open 9am-5pm weekdays, to 4pm weekends).

Day one

Take a view

Walk up to the peak of Mount Ainslie (3). From the Australian War Memorial (5), on Treloar Crescent, it’s a 40-minute trek of medium difficulty, and from the top you can survey the city, built on a series of axes.

The Australian War Memorial commemorates the sacrifices of Australians who have died in wars (Tourism Australia)

Take a hike

Walk back down Mount Ainslie (3), and either hop on a bus or take a taxi to Lake Burley Griffin; a good drop-off point is by the National Carillon bell tower (6), the first in a series of modern architectural marvels dotted along the lake.

The National Carillon was a gift from the British Government to the people of Australia in celebration of the capital’s 50th anniversary (VisitCanberra)

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Keep walking with the water to your left and you’ll come to the National Capital Exhibition (7) at Regatta Point (nationalcapitalexhibition.com.au), where you can learn about the history of Australia’s capital. Sydney and Melbourne had quarrelled over the title, and in 1908 Canberra was selected as the new capital; the design was inspired by the garden cities philosophy of a town within nature. Regatta Point offers more fine lakefront views. 

Next cross the Commonwealth Avenue Bridge (8) over the lake. You’ll see the National Library of Australia (9) (nla.gov.au) on your left; turn towards it and along the southern shore you can see plaques commemorating the Australians of the Year, dating back decades. 

Continuing in the same direction you’ll reach the stunning brutalist double bill of the High Court of Australia (10), and the National Gallery of Australia (11) (nga.gov.au; open daily, 10am-5pm), both on Parkes Place. 

Visitors can sit in on debating sessions at Old Parliament House (Tourism Australia)

Turn right on to King Edward Terrace and meander through the gardens to your right before you reach Old Parliament House (12) at 18 King George Terrace. Sitting behind, on Parliament Drive, it is Parliament House (2), the huge heart of Australian democracy (aph.gov.au). Prebook a tour; during the week you can even sit in on debating sessions. The coup de grace is the rooftop garden and the huge stainless steel flagpole, which flies an Aussie ensign the same size as a tennis court.

Lunch on the run

Stroll up to Braddon for a fantastic street food experience at The Hamlet (13), a collection of about a dozen trucks in an old car yard on Lonsdale Street. Broddogs (broddogs.com.au) is a Canberra institution; order a chilli cheese dog and enjoy on a stool while people-watching.

The Hamlet is a fun shopping district, with thrift shops, design boutiques and stores (VisitCanberra)

Window shopping

Head out of The Hamlet (13) on to Lonsdale Street. Here you’ll find thrift shops, design boutiques and stores selling all sorts of clothes, books and trinkets. Among the highlights are home accessories at Handsomepretty (14) in the Ori building at No 30 (handsomepretty.com.au) and women’s vintage threads at Designer Op Shop (15) at No 18 (designeropshop.com.au).

An aperitif

Smith’s Alternative (16) at 76 Alinga Street (smithsalterntaive.com), right by the City Centre bus interchange (17), is the perfect place for a glass of local wine. There’s a relaxed vibe, and live music later on too.

Dine with the locals

Akiba (18) at 40 Bunda Street (akiba.com.au) is a must for late-night dining. A five-minute stroll from Smith’s, it mashes Japanese and Aussie influences and serves the likes of prawn-fried rice and scallop ceviche in a ultra hipster blaze of beards, tats and neon signs.

Akiba is a culinary mashup of Japanese and Australian cuisine (VisitCanberra)

Day two

Sunday morning: Out to brunch

If you’re Jonesing for a cup of Joe head to Penny University (19) at 15 Kennedy Street, in the cool enclave of Kingston (pennyuniversitycafe.com). Avo on toast plus a flat white is a Canberra staple and here it’s done right – ask for home smoked bacon on the side. Brunch is served on Sundays 8am-2pm; weekdays 8am-12pm.

A walk in the park

Head to Weston Park (20) in Yarralumla, on the city’s western edge, and you’re almost guaranteed a heartwarming sight of dozens of kangaroos chilling out on the grass. 

Dozens of kangaroos can be spotted at Weston Park (Tasty Snaks/Flickr)

Not far away, on Forest Drive, is the National Arboretum (21) (nationalarboretum.act.gov.au). Much of it has been destroyed by successive bushfires, giving it an eerie feel, but look at the incredible trees that did survive on top of Dairy Farmer’s Hill, another excellent city vantage point.

Take a ride

The brilliantly named Action (as in ACT – Australian Capital Territory) buses are actually a very simple and easy way to get around the main sights. Single tickets cost AU$4.70 (£3), which allows you to transfer to another bus within 90 minutes. For discounted travel, pick up a contactless MyWay card, available at various stores around the city. If you are feeling lazier, by all means hire a car as some of the distances can make walking a little tricky; cycling is also good here.

Cultural afternoon

The National Museum of Australia (22), on Lawson Avenue on the lake’s north-west shore, is the city’s cultural big hitter (nma.gov.au; open 9am-5pm daily). It contains stacks of objects telling the story of Oz – from trinkets made by convicts to art that the Indigenous Australians of this continent have crafted, sometimes in very trying circumstances.

The National Museum of Australia houses 50,000 years of history (Tourism Australia)

The icing on the cake

You’d be mad not to take a trip out to the country. It’s a 30-minute drive north into the Yass Valley, where you could lunch on barramundi at an old farm called Poacher’s Pantry (poacherspantry.com.au) and stop by Clonkilla Winery (clonkilla.com.au) which has a new visitor’s centre, bar and tasting room which opened this year.

Travel essentials

Getting there

Singapore Airlines (singaporeairlines.com) flies four times a week from Heathrow to Canberra Airport (23) via Singapore. Returns start at £795 in economy and £2,910 business class. The airline also flies from Manchester.

Two-stop flights from the UK are available on various airlines including British Airways (with its partner, Cathay Pacific; ba.com), Qantas (with Emirates; qantas.com.au).

From the airport (23) a taxi takes just 10 minutes to get into town (approximately AU$50/£31) and the Airport Express bus around 20 minutes (royalecoach.com.au; AU$20/£12.50 return) to West Row (24) in the centre.

Staying there

Hotel Hotel (25) at 25 Edinburgh Avenue (hotel-hotel.com.au) is Canberra’s coolest choice. Concrete sculptures mix with natural wood and Fifties style décor in this exceptional Design Hotels outpost. Doubles from AU$255 (£159) excluding breakfast.

Hotel Hotel is easily the trendiest spot to stay in Canberra

The QT Canberra (26) at 1 London Court (qthotels.com.au) is a former 1970s Rydges hotel that was recently reborn as part of the ever-expanding Aussie boutique chain QT. It comes complete with a speakeasy (Luckies) and a barbershop. Room-only doubles from AU$169 (£105).

Vibe Hotel Canberra Airport (27) at 1 Rogan St (tfehotels.com) offers clean, simple style for a reasonable (for Canberra, at any rate) price. Being near the airport doesn’t matter as it’s extremely central. Doubles from AU$119 (£74), room only.